Here are some helpful tips from Mark Feirer, the author of Carpentry & Building Construction.

About Mark Feirer Mark Feirer is the author of Glencoe's Carpentry & Building Construction, as well as Wood Technology & Processes. He has edited and written a number of books on home improvement, home repair, and remodeling. Mark was a shop woodworker and building contractor before becoming editor of Fine Homebuilding magazine. Currently, Mark is a regular contributor to This Old House magazine.

Q  How do I prevent the lumber fascia nailed to the ends of rafters from coming loose? This has occurred in several cases.

A  This is a common problem because end grain doesn't hold nails very well, particularly outdoors where wood is exposed to moisture . If you've been using standard framing nails, switch to galvanized ring-shank or spiral-thread nails. Drive them at slightly opposing angles to improve their resistance to pullout. The top two nails should point slightly downward and the bottom one should point slightly upward. For a connection that is even more secure, use stainless-steel deck screws instead. They should be about the same length as the nails. The head of a square-drive deck screw is small and the heads even countersink themselves. Drill pilot holes as necessary to prevent the wood from splitting. For more information on fascia, please see Section 31.1 of Glencoe's Carpentry & Building Construction ©2005, by Mark Feirer.

Q  What is the correct method for installing grab bars in a shower or tub area?

A  Grab bars in a shower or tub areas are a valuable safety feature because wet, soapy, smooth surfaces are a slipping hazard. Grab bars are available in almost any color and in many materials. Typically, grab bar manufacturers call for installing their products with screws driven through finished tile or solid-surface wall finishes and directly into studs or into solid wood blocking between the studs, using #10 or larger stainless steel screws. However, always check manufacturer's literature for specific mounting instructions.

Q  How can I find the location of studs behind a drywall surface?

A  Shine a bright light over the surface at a steep angle. It is often possible to see where a drywall screw or nail has been covered with joint compound. Once you've found the location of one fastener that goes into a stud, measure from there to find the others. Studs are generally spaced 16" on center. Another method is to slide a magnet back and forth over the drywall—it will "grip" anytime it encounters a nail or screw and the fastener pinpoints the stud location. The best magnets to use are rare-earth magnets because they are small, smooth, and very strong. For more information on drywall, please see Section 40.1 of Glencoe's Carpentry & Building Construction ©2005, by Mark Feirer. For more information on studs, please see Section 21.1 of Glencoe's Carpentry & Building Construction ©2005, by Mark Feirer.

Q  The double-hung windows were painted shut. What is the best way to get them moving again?

A  Use a utility knife with a fresh blade to sever the paint's bond at the sides and bottom of the sash and at the meeting rail where the upper and lower sash overlap. Then gently work a thin, flexible putty knife between the sash to loosen things up and coax the window upward as best as you can. Once the windows are sliding again, sand or scrape away any excess paint. For more information on windows, please see Chapter 28 of Glencoe's Carpentry & Building Construction ©2005, by Mark Feirer. For more information on painting the interior, please see Section 41.3.

Q  What is picture molding?

A  This is a traditional type of wood trim typically used as part of a system for hanging framed pictures without damaging wall surfaces. It was used originally in rooms with high ceilings where it was installed a foot or two below the ceiling. In rooms with standard-height ceilings, the trim can be installed an inch or two below the ceiling. After picture molding is installed, framed pictures are connected to thin wires ending in a curved metal hook. The hook fits over the curved edge of the trim. For more information on molding and trim, please see Chapter 35 of Glencoe's Carpentry & Building Construction ©2005, by Mark Feirer.

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